seoul sonnet

How do I love Seoul? Let me count the ways.
I love the smell, the sight, the touch, the sound,
Of subways and shopping malls kept underground;
A fun way to spend time during commute delays.

Up above ground, under a clear blue sky,
I love the city parks in which to play,
Where Seoulites can relax and spend the day
In nature, away from traffic nearby.

A love the combination of old and new,
Aged palaces and temples sharing space
With modern high rises in the same place.
And I love the Han River flowing though.

I love the parties in the streets of Seoul,
The many festivals and fun celebrations
That unite people from different nations.
It’s these occasions that make a city whole.

There’s so much more that can’t be counted in lists,
Like the joy in finding new places to explore,
Or the change in oneself that can’t be ignored.
Bur perhaps what’s most important is this:
No matter what I do or where I roam,
I love how this city always feels like home.

seoul’s line 9

After many delays, Seoul finally opened its newest subway line, Line 9, on Friday. As a big fan of Seoul’s subway system, I have been impatiently checking the news in an effort to ride the line on its opening day—heck, I would have been at the opening ceremony if I could!—but sadly, I missed it by two days.

After finally walking down into the station I’ve walked past (longingly, I might add) for the past several months, I discovered just how nice this new underground tunnel was for myself. It sure is pretty. Everything is grey or silver coloured, even vending machines, despite the “Gold Line” designation it’s been given. Everything looks shiny, clean, and new.

But there are a few things I noticed were lacking. I was disappointed to see that the trademark coloured stripe on the wall is missing. The station could use a splash of colour—and it would be helpful for the transfer stations on other lines, too. I’ll let it pass for now, seeing as it’s still a new line, but that gold stripe better get itself on those walls soon. And I also noticed that all subway stations on this line look exactly the same. Something I’ve loved about other lines is that most stations are uniquely designed—for example, Gangnam Station (Line 2) has its black and white circular tiles; Chungmuro Station (Lines 3 and 4) looks like a cave with its grey, rocky walls; Samgakji Station (Lines 4 and 6) has a war mural—giving each station its own character, and allowing subway users to quickly know what station they’re at. Here, they all blend together.

The station also has some amazing map additions (okay, probably something not many people would get excited about, but I love it). Each station in the entire system comes equipped with lots of neighbourhood maps so users can find their way to attractions outside the stations, but at all stations on the gold line, they have two kinds of maps: one regular drawn map and one real-view aerial map. Aerial maps are awesome.

The train cars themselves are different too. First, trains only have four cars—half or less than half of other lines. Inside, the yellow handle bars alternate height for easier access. The seats are very comfortable, I’m told it’s because they’re a little wider, and the space underneath seats has been left open, which as far as I can remember doesn’t happen with other lines. And there are no doors in between the cars, making it easier for users with wheelchairs.

Line 9 has an express line, too, meaning some trains skip stations and only hit the main ones. I thought it might be confusing, but it seems organized and well posted. Lots of volunteers are on hand now to help people figure it all out.

My first ride on the newest subway line was exciting. Now I’m looking for more reasons to go to Gangnam so I can ride it again.

pose

When taking pictures of Koreans, I’ve found there are two options for poses: 1) grumpy, unsmiling, and serious, or 2) cutey-patootey with curious hand gestures and facial expressions. The former is popular in formal situations, such as school portraits, taxi registration cards, or business photos, while the latter is usually reserved for informal, casual situations, like hanging out with friends, sel-ka (cell phone camera self-portraits, the oh-so-popular Korean hobby), and nights out. I’ve recently come across this website that has a list of these so-called “Asian poses.” So far the author has listed 28 poses, including tears/teasing, horns, heart shape and giant heart, fighting fists, claws and other favourites.

While my students would be horrified (italics and underline necessary) if I ever posted pictures of them here, I can say that photos I’ve taken in my classroom have a large number of these creative poses. The V-sign (uncorrectly called the “peace sign” by Westerners, including myself) is by far the most popular of all the poses; it’s even one that I’ve adopted for my own photos. But it’s not limited to the static (and dare I say, uncreative) hand-up-beside-you-with-the-V-and-smile; my students can strike a dozen different poses with this simple gesture, including the sideways-V-sign-around-an-eye, the V-sign-around-the-mouth, and the double-V-signs-covering-my-cheeks-to-make-it-look-like-I-have-a-small-face.

The desire to have a small face poses (ha!) a problem when taking pictures. Many of my students become shy when I point my camera at them, immediate reacting to over up their face, either entirely or in portions. Another popular pose, which has yet to be included in the website, is the I’m-covering-my-entire-lower-face-with-my-hand-so-that-you-can-only-see-my-eyes-because-I-think-this-makes-me-look-like-I-have-a-small-face. (I personally think it looks like they’re being suffocated. Not cute.) Other variations of this pose include using fists to cover the lower half of the face, covering one cheek, or covering both cheeks with the palms in a V to make the face look more heart-shaped.

After reviewing this list of Asian poses, I’ve realized that I must take boring pictures. I usually like to smile, maybe throw up the V/peace sign, or—if I’m feeling bold—rest my hand on my hip. I have some work to do if I want to get these poses down before I leave Korea in six weeks.

start of goodbyes

Today, my seventh-to-last day of teaching regular classes at Dongduk, I received a little going-away present from three of my students. All three are first year students (the equivalent of grade 7 in North America), and two of the three had been in a few of my after-school programs this year. None of them are strong students—at all—but they has never stopped them from coming to talk with me after class, which I’ve always loved.

They presented me with a small envelope. Inside was a letter and some earrings. I was immediately impressed with the length of the letter; it was much longer than any composition they had written for me before. In the letter, they introduced themselves as “3 girls who received candies in 1-1 class.” Apparently my prizes have made more of an impression on the students than I thought! They went on to tell me that they are sad to see me leave, and asked, “Will you be happy without us??” Knowing that I will miss them, they answered for me: “Maybe you won’t HaHa~”

The pink, candy-shaped earrings, the girls wrote, were “composed of [their] minds,” which, although I don’t quite know what they meant by that, I appreciate the sentiment. Not my usual style, but I gladly put them on and am currently wearing them with pride.

The letter ends with a request to think of them often—something I’ll have no problem fulfilling. How could I forget?

This has gotten me thinking about some of my old teachers. Some of them I remember for being great teachers, or for helping me learn about myself. I never would have gotten through math if I didn’t have Ms Chalmers in high school for three years. Or, though I wasn’t his biggest fan at the time, Mr Sardine pushed me hard in English, and I have to thank him for that. Keck, my drama teacher, supported me through my growing years in high school.

But there are also those I remember for telling us that they hated teaching. I never knew why a teacher would announce to their students that they hated being there with us day in and day out; it’s not like we didn’t know they were huge grumps, but to tell us straight up they didn’t want to be there? That’s harsh. Then why are you here? I would telepathically ask them from my seat.

Now, after being a teacher myself, I question their actions even more. WHY WERE YOU A TEACHER?? I want to scream at them. I have loved my job here since Day 1; I’m energized as soon as I get in the classroom, even if I was falling asleep on the bus on the way to school. I feel priviledged to be a teacher, to do my best to help these students grow as people as well as English speakers.

My students don’t need to ask me to remember them. I always will.

i’ll eat you up…so yum yum

Of all the K-pop songs I’ve heard in the past 22 months, this one is still my favourite. Kwon Boa was born just outside of Seoul in 1986 and was discovered by the head of SM Entertainment at the age of 13. Since then, as BoA (“Beat of Angel”), she’s had success as a singer/dancer/model in both Korea and Japan. This year she went to the good ol’ US of A in search of success there, as well.

I found out about BoA not through my students, like usual, but throughYouTube Live concert in Tokyo (yes, I am a huge nerd).  And the first time I saw this video, I became a fan. This girl can dance. I can imagine trying to break into the American music scene is tough for an Asian pop star (it’s hard enough for Canadians, for goodness sake), but I hope she makes it.

seoul’s top 10

Time magazine has released its list of 10 things to do in Seoul in 24 hours:

1. Gyeongbok Palace, the main palace from the Joseon period
2. Bukchon Hanok Village, a neighbourhood of traditional houses
3. Shinsegae Department Store (the flagship location), an expensive department store
4. Bugaksan Mountain, a mountain near Gyeongbok Palace and the Blue House (the President’s residence)
5. Itaewan, the foreigner neighbourhood
6. Namdaemun Market, a huge market with just about anything you could want
7. Cheonggyecheon Stream, the renovated stream the flows through downtown
8. War Memorial of Korea, a war museum
9. Seoul City Bus Tour, hop-on/hop-off bus tour to the major tourist sights downtown
10. Korean Feasts, a selection of yummy Korean food, like galbi, grilled marinated beef, and japchae, stir-fried noodles with beef and veggies

I’m not sure about this list. I don’t think Shinsegae deserves a spot on the list; neither, I believe, does Bugaksan. Korean food, especially galbi, is definitely a must, though I wouldn’t say it’s a Seoul thing—it’s a Korea thing. There were also a few surprises in what wasn’t on the list, like N Seoul Tower. And I definitely know it’s not possible to do all this in 24 hours. But this got me thinking about my own favourite things. What would I recommend as 10 things visitors must do in Seoul? No matter what’s on the list, doing 10 things in one day is not possible in a city this size. It would take at least a few days, if not a few weeks, to really see the city. Here’s my list:

1. Cheonggyecheon (and the Cheonggyecheon Museum)
   Cheonggyecheon is Seoul’s favourite downtown stream, but the little-known museum dedicated to its history and development doesn’t get the attention it deserves. The Cheonggyecheon Museum is located at the eastern end of the landscaped stream (Yongdu Station, Line 2, exit 4), about 6 kilometres downstream from its headwaters at Cheonggye Plaza. The exhibits here detail its interesting history over the decades, from laundry site to highway to park, through videos, pictures, and 3D models.
2. Gyeongbok Palace, National Folk Museum, and Insadong
   Gyeongbok Palace is usually the first stop for any visitor to Seoul and, as the biggest and oldest palace of the Joseon Dynasty, it’s understandable. (I’ve visited 3 times myself.) Not only is the palace beautiful, but the National Folk Museum is located on the grounds as well. The museum offers a great introduction to the traditional Korean culture. If there’s room for only one museum, I would say this should be it. Nearby, the charming Insadong neighbourhood is a popular place to buy traditional souvenirs and sip tea in a traditional tea shop.
3. N Seoul Tower
   N Seoul Tower is what I call Seoul’s centerpiece—it sits atop Namsan Mountain in central Seoul, quietly overlooking the bustling city all around it. There are different routes up to the tower: cable car, bus, or hiking trail. No matter how you get there, the 360-degree view from the tower’s observatory is amazing, especially at night.
4. Han River
   The Han River. I’m wondering how it possibly could have been left off Time’s list. Was it just too obvious? The Han River divides the city neatly in half, inserting itself into daily life in such a way that it cannot be missed on any tour of the city. It’s the perfect backdrop for a walk or bike ride, or the setting for a romantic boat cruise.
5. Dongdaemun
   Dongdaemun is the largest shopping centre in Seoul, with dozens of multi-storey malls and thousands of specialty shops. Malls in Korea are quite unlike the Western malls I’m familiar with. Here, they’re designed more like markets, with stalls that are small, crowded, and open to the tiny aisles. Most stores don’t allow shoppers to try on clothes but do allow bargaining, adding to the market atmosphere. Dongdaemun is full—and I do mean full—of cute, cheap clothes and accessories.
6. Namdaemun
   For a more traditional shopping experience, Namdaemun is the largest wholesale market in the city. The 10 acres of shops and stalls carry just about everything, from clothes to groceries to electronics to housewares.
7. Gyeongdong Traditional Medicine Market
   As the largest traditional medicine market in the country, Gyeongdong handles about 70% of all oriental medicine in Korea. Even if you’re not buying, the market is a great place to wander around. The interesting aromas and textures from the collection of mushrooms, turtle shells, roots, vegetables, herbs and other medicinal necessities is a feast for your senses.
8. Noryangjin Fish Market
   The Noryangjin Fish Market is the (wait for it) largest marine market in Korea. The stalls are packed with all kinds of squirming and swimming seafood, like crab, lobster, and octopus. Good for more than just shopping, Noryangjin is also a great place for eating fresh seafood. If you’re up early, it’s especially lively before dawn when the auction happens.
9. Non-verbal Performance
   It might be difficult to take advantage of the performing arts in a country where you don’t speak the language, but Seoul has a lot of great non-verbal performances to see while you’re in town. Nanta, also called Cooking, is always rated highly, though I haven’t seen it yet myself. JUMP, about a family of martial arts enthusiasts, is also pretty popular. The Ballerina Who Loves a B-boy is, not surprisingly, a love story between a ballerina and a b-boy. Korean b-boys are world-renowned, so this show is a good opportunity to see the action.
10. Korean Folk Village
    Not exactly in Seoul, the Korean Folk Village is located in Suwon, about one hour south of the city, but it deserves to be included on the list anyways. The open-air museum has over 260 traditional houses to explore. There are also demonstrations of activities from the daily lives of traditional Koreans, such as craft-making and farming. My favourite, though, are the performances: farmer’s dances, nolttwigi (Korean see-saw), and tight-rope acrobatics.

earth hour seoul, 2009

A message from South Korean UN Secretary-General, Ban Ki-moon:

What is Earth Hour?

last farewell

Big Bang is back, most definitely! Big Bang is a K-pop group my students talk about all the time. The girls still get excited every time they ask me if I know them and I answer, “Big Bang? Of course I know them. I love them!” I do get stuck, though, when I’m asked to name my favourite member—I can only name two (G-dragon and TOP) because a few students have adopted these as their English names. I can’t recognize them in pictures, either, much to the disappointment of my students who show me pictures and introduce them as their “boyfriends.” This song, “Last Farewell,” came out months ago (I first heard it last winter!), but I still love it—my favourite K-pop song so far!

English lyrics:

“Last Farewell”
Big Bang

Yes! Big Bang is back! Most definitely, incredible! Hey move!
B to the I to the G (Bang, bang) about love

Chorus
I don’t wanna be without you girl, I wish that the last farewell is not near
Just today for the entire day, I don’t wanna be without you girl
My clumsy heart, please hug it and go
I love you, I need you girl

[SR] Baby baby baby although it’s a little awkward, we
[DS] baby baby baby are still loving each other
[TY] baby baby baby and even though it’s frightening,
Even though the end can be seen, for me [there’s] only you girl

[Taeyang]
You, who filled me with only pain and treated me cruelly
I, who stroked you soothingly, but then changing again, avoided you
Worry from wondering how we went wrong
Wandering inside a problem that has no answer
[G-Dragon]
Even if I am a wanderer lost on a path enclosed inside a maze, I can’t do this at all
Only being able to wait, asking you to come to me in muffled steps girl
Like when we first met, like when this was still new
Like this, like this, like this, like that, like that, like that never leave my side

Chorus
I don’t wanna be without you girl, I wish that the last farewell is not near
Just today for the entire day, I don’t wanna be without you girl
My clumsy heart, please hug it and go
I love you, I need you girl

[SR] Baby baby baby although it’s a little awkward, we
[DS] baby baby baby are still loving each other
[TY] baby baby baby and even though it’s frightening,
Even though the end can be seen, for me [there’s] only you girl

[TOP] (Seungri)
You didn’t contact me after leaving without a single word (Without a single word)
But one day you suddenly appeared (Asking how I was doing)
Are you playing around with me or is this really love
Even in a single day, I get confused twelve more times (About love)

[TOP] (Daesung)
I asked you in return why you would want a toy that you were going to play with only once or twice
The sweet taste for a very short moment, the cotton candy that we melted too easily
(Because it seems like I also won’t be able to block the weary heart anymore)
Grab me quickly (Before you leave)

Chorus
I don’t wanna be without you girl, I wish that the last farewell is not near
Just today for the entire day, I don’t wanna be without you girl
My clumsy heart, please hug it and go
I love you, I need you girl

[SR] Baby baby baby although it’s a little awkward, we
[DS] baby baby baby are still loving each other
[TY] baby baby baby and even though it’s frightening,
Even though the end can be seen, for me [there’s] only you girl

[DS] Although I still love you, although you’re so important to me ye
[SR] That nobody can take my place, I know (You know)
[TY] Oh please just hug me quietly

Chorus
I don’t wanna be without you girl, I wish that the last farewell is not near
Just today for the entire day, I don’t wanna be without you girl
My clumsy heart, please hug it and go
I love you, I need you girl

[SR] Baby baby baby although it’s a little awkward, we (Although it’s a little awkward)
[DS] baby baby baby are still loving each other (But I love you)
[TY] baby baby baby and even though it’s frightening,
Even though the end can be seen, for me [there’s] only you girl

come to han river

students’ work

The Han River is one of my favourite places in Seoul, but I think my students describe it best:

If you are visiting Korea for the first time, I recommend you go to Han river, the most beautiful river in Korea. Han river is located in Seoul, the capital of Korea. Han river has been playing very important role through history. In the past, Han river was used for main transportation. Today, Han river is visited by many people. Citizens enjoy their free time there, such as fishing, water skiing, taking boats, and more!

In addition, Han river was the setting of a Korean move “Monster” (2006). It was a great hit. Anyway, I hope you will have a wonderful time and unforgetable memories at Han river. Just enjoy Korea!

korean food: it’s delicious

Beside being healthy, Korean food is darn tasty. There are a few standout dishes that I particularly love: bibimbap and gogi gui.

Bibimbap (mixed rice) is just what the name suggests: a bowl of white rice served with a variety of ingredients, such as lettuce, carrots, soybean sprouts, daikon (radish), mushrooms, and pepper paste, then topped with a fried egg.

Each type of ingredient is served in a group (as in my students’ drawing), making for a colourful presentation. Everything has to be stirred and mixed very well before eating it—something Koreans like to tease foreigners about when they first try it.

It sounds weird (at least it did to me when I first heard of it), but it’s really good—a recipe I will be taking home with me!

Gogi gui (grilled meat, known as “Korean barbeque”) is definitely my favourite Korean food. What separates Korean barbeque from other barbeques is the grill. In Korea, it’s not found in the backyard—it’s on your table.

Enter the restaurant and take a seat; you’ll notice the grill is built into the centre of the table. Ask the server for your choice of meat, maybe bulgogi (beef), galbi (pork or beef ribs), or samgyeopsal (pork). Cut the meat into bite-sized portions with scissors before placing it on the sizzling grill. As you chat, carefully turn the pieces over until they’re ready. When they’re crisp (and the smell of barbequed meat is too much to handle), dig in. Grab a leaf of lettuce, use your chopsticks to take a piece of meat off the grill and place it in the middle, and then grab other pieces from the buncheon (sidedishes) and add them on top of the meat. Fold the lettuce over and stuff it into your mouth. Cheers with a shot of soju and a shout of “Kanbae!“

Eating at Korean barbeque restaurant is not a meal—it’s an experience.